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It’s hard to pin down Oakland’s Copper Spoon as any one thing: The three large sections of its interior move between modern chic, homey comfort and simple elegance. And “eclectic” practically defines the menu, which keeps a general American farm-to-table vibe, while throwing in twists that let you know there are creative, unconventional minds at work in the kitchen.
Housed in the space once held by the legendary Art’s Crab Shak (and still adorned by its sign), Copper Spoon is the collaborative effort of executive chef Andre Hall and co-owners Vita Simone Strauss and Carmen Anderson. Hall cut his teeth in restaurants in San Diego and San Francisco; Simone Strauss and Anderson most recently operated the Sassafras Seagrass food truck, though both have long experience in the industry.
The vibe: Comfortable but classy. As mentioned above, the dining room combines several different “feels” in a way that doesn’t seem forced or jarring. The rear dining room could be part of a stylish friend’s home. The main room is dominated by high ceilings and a bar featuring a bright stripe all the way down its surface and colorful backlighting. Long open walls expand the space into a second, lower-ceilinged dining area.
“Smoke” is the word at Copper Spoon. In addition to some smoky bites on the menu, the bar is heavy into mezcal, with drinks like the Fight The Power and the lower-alcohol Simmer Down ($12) taking center stage.
The food: The menu is divided into raw bar offerings, including a bright ceviche ($10) with just a touch of sweetness, as well as “bites and greens,” mains and some clever verbiage. The Beets by Dre ($7), for example, features roasted and pickled beet slices drizzled with a beet-mezcal gelee and a powerfully smoky yogurt. Tiny bacon shards add an extra smoky kick. And the five mains offer a little something for everyone, including vegetarians and pescatarians. We tried the tender, juicy Herb and Citrus Marinated Chicken ($21), served with sweet potato, okra and mustard greens — the dish felt hearty and healthy on a cold winter night — and the nicely seasoned Sassy’s Lamb Merguez Burger ($16), topped with a cool tzatziki sauce.
Perfect for … A dinner with friends who are adventurous — but not too adventurous. There are interesting things happening in the kitchen at Copper Spoon, but the inspiration comes from some classic dishes and flavors. Conservative taste buds will be challenged, but won’t feel as though they’re eating on another planet.
Details: Copper Spoon is open daily for lunch, dinner and late-night drinks and bites at 4031 Broadway in Oakland, near 40th Street. Reservations can be made online at copperspoonoakland.com or by calling 510-879-7061.
